Differential Mounting

The original lower cross member was removed completely and replaced with 80 x 40 x 2 hollow section.  This will be much stronger than original.  Essential really given what it's got to do!

The two lower mounting bolts from the Supra diff were in the right place.  A number of the cooling fins were in the way though, soon removed.



Heavy duty hydraulic pipe was used to reinforce the mounting points in the new chassis member.



For the mountings polybushes for a Freelander rear radius arm to hub carrier (1XP) were used.  Custom spacers were made from stainless steel, as was a spacer to separate the two bushes. 




A further stainless steel spacer is used between the chassis rail and the diff.  Large, heavy duty stainless steel washers were made to compress the bushes onto the spacer.  These will also ensure nothing can fall out should the bushes ever fail.



The front mounts are still to be made.  As the UV joints move through an angle their velocity is not constant and a vibration is set up.  To eliminate this vibration it is essential that the angle of the UV joints at both ends of the prop shaft are the same.  The engine is 27mm lower at the back than the front, over a distance of 1350mm, equating to 1.15deg.



The input flange of the diff therefore has to be at 1.15deg.  I use a digital protractor to get this.  This little device comes in useful many times, even when checking the chassis for twist.  A great addition to the toolbox.



The polybushes at the front of the diff are actually from a Triumph, though a TR7/8 Track Control Arm (30H).  The original diff mounting holes had to be enlarged to take them.  A bolt, again with a substantial stainless steel washer, will pass from the bottom, though the bush (with a custom spacer sleeve) and into a fabricated structure that will go back to the main chassis rail.  I really wanted this to span the two chassis rails, improving torsional stiffness, but there simply isn't enough space to do it.

Driveshafts

These are from a Ford Sierra, the type with tripod joints at both ends.  They are really sealed units, but can be taken apart if necessary. 

First a cut was made through the outer cover:




Using a screwdriver, to minimise the risk of tearing the metal, I gradually worked around the outer cover:


and eventually the cover came away to reveal the tripod joint.  Refitting wil be fun, as the cover will have to be beaten back into shape, and probably secured with a few tack welds.  That's for another time though.